Denims, skinny dupattas and fringe skirts are leading Indian couture’s cool girl makeover

It would seem that Indian designers collectively decided to think beyond the ‘can-barely-walk-in’ lehenga at this season of Hyundai India Couture Week 2025 in association with Reliance Brands, an initiative of FDCI. In a country where bridal fashion drives the bottom line for most design houses, wedding wear and couture have long been synonymous. But as the consumer evolves, so too does the canvas— and what we witnessed on the runway was a quiet renaissance.

Yes, the saris and shararas remained—loud, proud, and unapologetically opulent—but this time, they shared the spotlight with silhouettes that looked beyond the bride. Think kaftans with intricate embroideries, mini dresses with detailed cutwork, corsets with everything and pantsuits for everyone. This is a Vogue-approved round up of the standout looks that made it our couture hit list for 2025.

Rahul Mishra

Rahul Mishra opened the couture season with ‘Becoming Love’—an extension of his Paris showcase, where Mughal miniatures met Monet and Klimt. A mini version of Cardi B’s viral bustier gown made the cut, but the real stars were Mishra’s sculptural 3D creations. Like this embroidered column gown, complete with its own architectural frame. Not for the faint of fashion, but perfect for those who revel in the pure joy of dressing up.

Roseroom By Isha Jajodia

Gulshan Sacheva-(Vidhi Images)