Is ginseng an alternative to retinol?

In China and Korea, ginseng has been used in the pharmacopoeia for thousands of years. Not least because it is traditionally associated with longevity. It has positive effects on memory, acts as an energy booster, increases libido, strengthens the immune system and, above all, has anti-inflammatory properties, which help reduce intestinal swelling and digestive disorders.

In the cosmetics field, the ginseng root is one of the pillars of Korean skincare, due to its energising, antioxidant, hydrating and anti-ageing properties. It is no coincidence that the scientific name of its plant, panax, has the same root as the term “panacea”.

“It is considered the most precious plant in Asia, once reserved for kings”, explains Audrey Faure Grousson, doctor of pharmacy and project manager for active ingredients at the Korean make-up and skincare brand Erborian. “It is also one of the most studied plant species in the world, and it has not yet revealed all its secrets.”

The benefits of ginseng for the skin

Although the properties of ginseng are not yet fully known, we know that this plant, present in both East Asia and North America, is a particularly powerful ingredient for combating oxidative stress and premature ageing of cells. This is mainly due to the four active ingredients contained in its root:

Vitamin C: helps maintain skin elasticity and participates in collagen synthesis;

Vitamin E: strengthens the skin’s hydrolipidic film;

Vitamin B: reduces inflammation;

Ginsenosides: stimulate cell regeneration, improve elasticity and tone, reduce wrinkles and fine lines and give brightness to the skin.

Red Ginseng vs white ginseng

Ginseng root is used in two variants: red and white. The so-called “red ginseng” comes from roots that are at least 6 years old and owes its colour to a conservation process that involves treating the root with high-temperature steam (120-130°) for 2-3 hours before drying. White ginseng, on the other hand, is obtained from younger roots, 4 years old, which are washed, scraped and then dried.

Although the difference between the two types is essentially the age of the root and the processing, some studies suggest that white ginseng, undergoing minimal heat treatment, better maintains the original profile of ginsenosides and, consequently, their effectiveness.

Should you swap retinol with ginseng?

The exceptional antioxidant properties of ginseng have led several skincare brands to incorporate this naturally derived ingredient into their product formulas. The aforementioned K-brand Erborian, for example, has created a super-powerful complex, the White Ginseng Complex, which combines the benefits of white ginseng with those of extracts of other plant species, in particular licorice (soothing, refreshing), wild yam (hydrating), horsetail (stimulates collagen production) and kigelia (toning, firming, regenerating).

Some studies suggest that ginseng could even be an alternative to what is now considered the star ingredient in skincare, retinol (which is a chemical compound derived from vitamin A), equalling its benefits but without the drawbacks, such as photosensitivity and the risk of causing irritation, redness and flaking (especially in the first phase of use).

This article first appeared on Vogue.fr

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