Beauty & Skincare Guides

Why Azelaic Acid Is the Underdog of Your Acne-Fighting Routine

Allure


Treating acne (and the discoloration it leaves behind) is no easy task, but the best azelaic acid serums can speed up the process. If you’re a skin-care enthusiast, you’ve likely heard of—and experimented with—a handful of acids, be it glycolic, salicylic, or polyhydroxy. However, azelaic acid is particularly effective at killing acne-causing bacteria, loosening skin to unclog pores, reducing inflammation, and evening skin tone (all without irritating sensitive skin types). “[Azelaic acid serum] is a great product to use in combination with other acne medicines or alone,” says Ava Shamban, MD, a Beverly Hills-based board-certified dermatologist. If your skin-care concerns involve pesky pimples, dark spots, and redness, we’ve rounded up the best azelaic acid-infused serums to add to your routine, stat.

Our Top Azelaic Acid Serums

Frequently Asked Questions

Best Overall: SkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment

SkinCeuticals

Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment

Why it’s worth it: SkinCeuticals’ Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment contains 3% azelaic acid (a lower dose of the ingredient to avoid sensitizing skin) and 2% brightening alpha arbutin, a gentler derivative of the somewhat controversial hydroquinone. This green-tinted serum also contains a soothing, moisturizing botanical blend of cucumber, thyme, and olive leaf extracts to calm redness and irritation. Our editors love this gel-cream moisturizer’s cooling, skin-soothing texture and redness-neutralizing tint. “Its lightweight, oil-free, silicone-free, [and] non-comedogenic formula is suitable for acne-prone and sensitive skin,” says Michele Green, MD, a New York City-based board-certified dermatologist.

  • Key ingredients: azelaic acid (3%), alpha arbutin, cucumber extract, thyme extract, olive leaf extract
  • Who it’s for: all skin types
  • Fragrance-free: yes

Best Soothing: Shani Darden Skin Care Rescue Serum With 10% Azelaic Complex

Shani Darden Rescue Serum with 10% Azelaic Complex gray serum bottle on light gray background

Shani Darden

Rescue Serum with 10% Azelaic Complex

Why it’s worth it: Shani Darden Skin Care’s Rescue Serum features mid-strength 10% azelaic acid, a Goldilocks-level dose to target acne and dark spots without veering into irritation-causing levels for sensitive skin. Made specifically for targeting discoloration and inflammation, this calming serum combines azelaic acid’s soothing properties with other skin-coddling favorites, including oat kernel extract, hyaluronic acid, and aloe vera. To double down on its tone-evening properties, this serum is also infused with brightening licorice root extract and antioxidant panthenol.

Tester feedback from contributing commerce editor Deanna Pai

“I was using a prescription-strength azelaic acid to control my breakouts, but swapped to this when it ran out. It’s done wonders to take the redness out of my acne and reduce swelling, keeping my skin calm and relatively clear. I also like that it seems to be fading my dark spots too—a win-win.” —Deanna Pai, contributing commerce editor

  • Key ingredients: azelaic acid (10%), oat kernel extract, aloe vera extract, licorice root extract, panthenol, hyaluronic acid
  • Who it’s for: all skin types, including sensitive
  • Fragrance-free: yes

Best Overnight Treatment: Lion Pose Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum

night serum in branded orange color way with inner pump on light gray background with red and white 2024 allure best of beauty seal

Lion Pose

Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum

Why it’s worth it: Ever wished achieving a clearer, brighter complexion was as easy as sleeping? Well, it’ll never be (sorry), but using a high-dose overnight treatment like Lion Pose’s Unspotted 4X Acid Jelly Night Serum will take your beauty sleep up a radiance-boosting notch. This Best of Beauty-winning serum contains a 15% concentration of the brand’s proprietary exfoliating acid blend that works through the night to minimize active acne and any discoloration they’ve left behind. “It’s a great combination of azelaic and tranexamic acid for decreasing hyperpigmentation, and also contains glycolic and lactic acids to help lift pigment,” says Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. To offset any irritation, this serum is spiked with a skin-calming mix of Centella asiatica extract (also known as cica), hyaluronic acid, and aloe vera.

  • Key ingredients: 15% acid blend (tranexamic acid, glycolic acid, azelaic acid, lactic acid), cica, aloe vera extract, glutathione, hyaluronic acid
  • Who it’s for: acne-prone skin, those with dark spots, and hyperpigmentation
  • Fragrance-free: yes

Best Budget: The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%

The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% in tube with clear cap on light gray background

The Ordinary

Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%

Why it’s worth it: The Ordinary’s Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension Brightening Cream is one of the best azelaic acid formulas out there that you can get under $20. “Azelaic acid is a gentle exfoliator with anti-inflammatory properties to help address redness,” says Nazanin Saedi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in East Norriton, PA. “I love that it also helps lighten hyperpigmentation or brown spots left behind by acne and other skin irritations.” This means that this multitasking cream not only clears pores and calms redness—it helps fade the marks that breakouts leave behind. Dr. Green also praises this cream’s thin formula, which can be layered under your favorite moisturizer for an extra boost of hydration without feeling greasy.

  • Key ingredients: azelaic acid (10%)
  • Who it’s for: acne-prone skin
  • Fragrance-free: yes

Best for Acne-Prone Skin: Allies of Skin Azelaic and Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum

Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum on a grey background

Allies of Skin

Azelaic and Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum

Why it’s worth it: Allies of Skin was inspired by the belief that skin-care should be effective and simple (a.k.a. work smarter, not harder). The Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum lives up to that mission, especially if you’re dealing with oily or skin prone to blemishes. This multitasking formula helps unclog pores, reduce excess oil, and calm active breakouts, all while fading stubborn dark spots. “Incorporating azelaic acid, bakuchiol, kojic acid, and hexylresorcinol, this serum can help target discoloration, uneven skin tone and texture, while also brightening the skin and reducing redness,” says Dr. Garshick. “I especially love that it’s lightweight and absorbs easily.” It’s fragrance-free, non-comedogenic, and works great under your makeup or SPF, making it a great choice for preventing breakouts day or night.

  • Key ingredients: 10% azelaic acid, bakuchiol, kojic acid
  • Who it’s for: people with oily or acne-prone skin
  • Fragrance-free: yes

Best for Uneven Tone: Fig.1 Beauty Even Tone Serum

Fig1 Even Tone Serum on a grey background

Fig 1 Skincare

Even Tone Serum

Why it’s worth it: When an azelaic acid product is called Even Tone, you expect results—and this delivers. Developed by dermatologists, Fig.1’s Even Tone Serum is packed with heavy-hitting brighteners like “niacinamide, tranexamic acid, alpha-arbutin, and 1% azelaic acid to help fade dark spots and boost glow. This combination helps improve skin concerns like discoloration and radiance,” says Dr. Garshick. Plus, it’s fragrance-free and gentle enough for all skin types, including sensitive skin, thanks to a much lower concentration of azelaic acid than other products on the shelf. The lightweight texture absorbs quickly, plays nicely with your SPF or makeup, and comes in a sleek, refillable bottle.

  • Key ingredients: 1% azelaic acid, niacinamide, tranexamic acid
  • Who it’s for: people with hyperpigmentation or uneven skin tone
  • Fragrance-free: yes

Best for Sensitive Skin: Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10%

Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10% in branded component on a light gray background

Naturium

Azelaic Topical Acid 10%

Why it’s worth it: Naturium’s Azelaic Topical Acid 10% is a gentle, multitasking treatment that’s perfect for sensitive or acne-prone skin. It features potassium azeloyl diglycinate, a milder derivative of azelaic acid, along with niacinamide and ethyl ascorbic acid (a stable form of vitamin C) to calm redness, fade post-acne spots, and brighten skin without irritation. “I’m a busy, working mom, so I love products that help me multitask. This is such a great combination for those with acne-prone skin who manage redness and want to incorporate anti-aging ingredients,” says Dr. Saedi, who recommends using a pea-sized amount in the morning. “In a couple of months, you should notice an improvement in texture, lighter brown spots, and clearer, more radiant skin.”

  • Key ingredients: potassium azeloyl diglycinate, coffee seed extract, niacinamide
  • Who it’s for: dry or sensitive skin
  • Fragrance-free: yes

Best Prescription-Strength: Agency by Curology Future Formula

Agency by Curology Future Formula in branded component on a light gray background

Agency by Curology

Future Formula

Why it’s worth it: If the lower doses of azelaic acid available over the counter aren’t doing your skin justice (and if you have approval from a trustworthy dermatologist), it’s time to look into a prescription-strength formula. Our editors love the Best of Beauty-winning Agency by Curology Future Formula, a customized night cream available via telehealth prescription. Since it’s personalized for your skin, your exact formula will vary, the brand states that most formulas contain tretinoin (a prescription-level retinoid that addresses fine lines) paired with azelaic acid and other skin-brightening ingredients like tranexamic acid and niacinamide.

“This made me so at ease with my skin journey. Every night—after cleansing and spritzing on my favorite essence—I spread one pump of the creamy, buttery-yellow Future Formula all over my face. Straight away, you can tell the serum is not going to suck the moisture out of your skin because its rich texture spreads on a layer of hydration without feeling like you’re undergoing a painful chemical peel. Plus, I love that it doesn’t have the overwhelming, chemical smell that retinol tends to have. I simply layer a moisturizer on top and I’m free to get my beauty sleep. It puts everything my skin needs—over-the-counter and prescription ingredients—in one simple bottle.” —Devon Abelman, former beauty editor

  • Key ingredients: azelaic acid (concentration varies), tretinoin, tranexamic acid, niacinamide
  • Who it’s for: acne-prone skin, mature skin
  • Fragrance-free: yes

Frequently Asked Questions

What is azelaic acid?

When most people hear the word “acid,” they usually think of a harsh chemical, but actually, azelaic acid is a sensitive skin-friendly molecule (well, depending on its concentration, which we’ll dive more into) found and derived from barley, rye grains, and wheat. It’s part of the dicarboxylic acids family and has antibacterial, keratolytic, comedolytic, and antioxidant properties. Azadeh Shirazi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in La Jolla, California, tells Allure that azelaic acid works by inhibiting tyrosinase (a.k.a. the enzyme involved in pigment production) and, thereby, “reduces hyperpigmentation” and describes this buzzy acid as a “dermatologist favorite, ack-of-all-trades, and one of the most underrated skin-care ingredients.” Okay, we’re officially sold.

Dr. Green echoes Dr. Shirazi’s sentiments. Both professionals also note that the benefits of azelaic acid include antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, excellent for treating skin conditions like acne and rosacea, as it kills breakout-causing bacteria and reduces inflammation. This versatile acid, also considered a gentle exfoliant, stimulates cell turnover as well. As such, Dr. Green says that azelaic acid “can help reduce the appearance of acne scars.”

Who can use azelaic acid?

The good news is that azelaic acid is safe for all skin types, but with that being said, Dr. Green advises those with sensitive skin to start using the ingredient “once a day, increasing the frequency to twice a day after several weeks.” And, if you experience any irritation, it’s best to consult your doctor before continuing.

You also need not worry too much about adjusting your entire skin-care routine to incorporate azelaic acid. Fortunately, Dr. Green and Dr. Shirazi agree that azelaic acid is generally gentle enough and safe to use with other ingredients like vitamin C, AHAs, BHAs, and retinoids. However, says Dr. Green, “If you have prescription-strength azelaic acid, Retin-A, or other topical creams, you should consult a dermatologist.”

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *