Do eye creams actually work? It depends on what you’re using them for

For years, eye creams have carried the reputation of being skincare’s most debatable step—often overlooked, sometimes overpromised and frequently misunderstood. But formulas have evolved. Today’s eye creams are no longer just miniature moisturisers. With carefully selected actives and textures designed for the thinner, more sensitive skin around the eyes, they can help address specific concerns like puffiness, dark circles, fine lines and dryness, without overwhelming the barrier.

One size rarely fits all, especially when it comes to eye care. You need to figure out what it is you want to address. Whether you’re looking to de-puff, brighten, smooth or repair, the newest generation of eye creams is doing far more than just hydrating. Here’s what to look for and what to buy.

For under-eye puffiness

Puffiness is usually about fluid retention and sluggish circulation, not ageing. Look for caffeine, green tea extract, niacinamide, and peptides that support microcirculation and reduce inflammation. Cooling gel textures and metal-tip applicators also help (not magic, but mechanics).

For dark circles

Not all dark circles are created equal—some are genetic, others are pigmentation or thin skin. For pigmentation, look for eye creams with vitamin C, niacinamide and liquorice root extract. For vascular or bluish tones, peptides and brightening optical diffusers can help over time.

For fine lines and wrinkles

You want retinol or retinal, but buffered with ceramides, peptides, or hyaluronic acid to prevent irritation. The skin here is thinner and more reactive, so look for eye-specific retinoid formulas that won’t compromise the barrier.

For dryness and barrier repair

Dry, flaky under-eyes often need more than water; they need ceramides, fatty acids and occlusives to seal in moisture. Peptides and hyaluronic acid offer plumping benefits too. Look for textures that don’t migrate into your eyes and cause irritation.

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